Les Cocottes

Christian Constant — formerly executive chef at the Crillon, then twenty years on rue Saint-Dominique — opened Les Cocottes in 2009 as the relaxed sibling to his (now-retired) Violon d'Ingres. The format is in the name: every dish is built and served in a small cast-iron cocotte at counter or table. Caesar salad with seared chicken, parmentier of oxtail with truffle, dark-chocolate moelleux. No reservations originally; now a hybrid with reserved tables and walk-in counter seats. Open continuously from noon to 10:45pm. The most useful 7e address when you do not want to do haute cuisine but want competent classical cooking near the Eiffel.