L'Ami Jean

Stéphane Jégo bought L'Ami Jean in 2004 and turned the oldest Basque bistro on rue Malar into one of Paris's bistronomie reference rooms. Tight tables, slate floor, kitchen open to the dining room. The cooking is Brittany-by-way-of-Basque-country: line-caught fish with sea-vegetable jus, slow-braised lamb shoulder, charcuterie from named Pyrenees producers, and the rice pudding — the riz au lait — served in a sharing bowl with salted caramel and candied hazelnuts that Paris food writers have called for two decades. Listed in the Michelin Guide; covered repeatedly in Le Figaro and Le Monde. The pilgrimage table for serious Paris bistronomie tourists.