Le Servan

Tatiana and Katia Levha — sisters who passed through L'Arpège and L'Astrance — opened Le Servan in 2014 and quickly became one of the bistros that defined what the 11e meant for the next decade. Tatiana cooks French technique through a Filipino prism: calamansi cutting through brown butter, lemongrass folded into terrines, sambal beside the cheese course. Katia runs the floor and the wine list. The room is light, the ceiling is hand-painted, the bar is central, and the booking page disappears two weeks out. Lunch is the easier seat. The kitchen reads its own influences without ever sliding into novelty.