Lugares in Çeşme

The world's largest olive oil museum, a Klazomenai mill replica, a working modern press, a restaurant and a shop, seventeen kilometres from Alaçatı

A working 9.5-dönüm farm puts its own tomatoes, peppers and preserves on a thirty-three-plate table overlooking a waterfall

Waterfront boutique rooms with a private slip of beach

A small, coffee-only room that fresh-roasts and means it

A 322-year-old Hellenistic stone house steps from the ruins

Alaçatı's first gallery, where the village's painters and ceramicists have shown since 2005

A year-round roaster that treats single origins as the whole point

A working ceramic atelier on Paşadayı square, pots thrown on-site and taught hands-on

The Gemici family's own Alaçatı label, mastic-skinned white and Syrah, sold beside their jams and olive-oil soap

A corner garden of lemon trees where the serpme stays classic and the pişi keeps coming, no bazaar-street theatre attached

The Sezginer family puts up a wholly organic morning under their own vines, pouring grape juice pressed from grapes you can reach up and pick

Stone terrace at the gate of Erythrai antique city, the Ildırı sunset bench with takımadalar in frame

The 1994 Saturday market on Tokoğlu's edge, the peninsula's slow-food anchor and the village's true social square

The Demirel family's handmade Alaçatı patisserie, a quiet bakery counter the village uses for birthdays it actually means

A 130-year stone-house garden in Hacımemiş where the Aegean serpme is taken seriously and the bazlama still comes off the saç

The Akbulut family's 2014 Alaçatı gelato counter, a Financial Times top-25 boutique, a hundred-and-fifty rotating flavours, made on site every morning

Founded 1953 by the Kadagan brothers from Yugoslavia, the peninsula's archetype of stew-pot Anatolian home cooking, still in family hands

Eğlenhoca cooperative dairy, small-batch sepet keçi, deri tulum and oily-piquant kopanisti from peninsula goats

The peninsula's serious specialty coffee bar, Guatemala, Colombia, Kenya, Ethiopia on rotation, a Hacımemiş regulars' room

Mordoğan iskele room facing the sea, the working-village fish counter that yacht trade hasn't reached

A breakfast garden among Ovacık's vines, own house wine, own jams, own menemen

Nihal Hanım's garden in Saip village, forty house jams, mountain-foraged herbs, breakfast cooked by the village women

A twelve-year Alaçatı kahvaltı institution that quietly moved into the village square, herbed eggs, proper jams, no theatrics

A reservation-only farm garden between Alaçatı and Ovacık where the orange-cured olives alone earn the trip