Places in Bastille, Charonne & Oberkampf

Brazilian asador, Lucas Baur de Campos's open-fire 11e room, Le Fooding, Infatuation cult.

Cyril Lignac and Benoît Couvrand's original 11e patisserie, the Equinoxe was born here

1902 Art Nouveau brasserie on Ledru-Rollin, Mucha frescoes, listed interior, honest cooking.

Alain Ducasse's bean-to-bar manufacture in the 11e, Nicolas Berger's atelier behind a cobbled courtyard

A turn-of-the-century café preserved without irony, zinc bar, red banquettes, all-day terrace.

Mok and Omar's lunch counter and bakery, Lebanese-Japanese-American detail in a 25-seat room.