Cozy in Çeşme

An owner-poured bar where the cocktail list is rewritten, not reprinted

Olga and Özgür's Turkish-Russian courtyard kitchen, two grandmothers' recipes met in a stone garden under pomegranate and lemon

Thirty-seven local boutique bottles in the village's hundred-year priest's house, fireplace, three rooms upstairs, the bar that built the wine reputation