Lokale in Çeşme

Two hundred Turkish bottles in a pomegranate garden behind a 150-year-old house, wine boutique and kitchen under the same roof

The village's oldest rakı-fish table, run by the same family since 1950

Wood-fire slow food hidden in the Ovacık fields

Enes Kara's stone courtyard reading of Aegean cooking, equal parts rooted and rewritten