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Where Naples goes cerebral, on Corso Vittorio Emanuele

Ducasse's first Italian table, ninth floor of Romeo

Naples' first two-star room, above the bay

Lino Scarallo's seafront room on Via Posillipo

A ninth-floor terrace over the Castel dell'Ovo seafront

A starred rooftop over the Phlegraean gulf

Diego Nuzzo's quiet temple of fish off Piazza dei Martiri

Polished new-Neapolitan seafood on Piazza Vittoria

Naples' most-decorated dough, second-best pizzeria in Italy

Ciro Salvo's featherweight dough on Piazza Sannazaro

Enzo Coccia's scholarly take on Neapolitan pizza

Tutino brothers' tradition-rooted pizza on Piazza Mercato

Contemporary pizza on Piazza San Domenico Maggiore

Raffaele Bonetta's contemporary pizza, now in the Vomero

Ciro Oliva's Sanità pizzeria, neighbourhood made gastronomy

A fishing family's tiny vicolo temple to impeccable Naples seafood

Century-old Materdei institution, home of the pizza fritta

Ultracentennial Vomero pizzeria, open since 1916

Naples' 1870 temple: only Margherita and Marinara

The original Sorbillo on Via dei Tribunali since 1935