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Alléno's one-Michelin counter format at Pavillon Ledoyen, the realistic same-week booking.

Adeline Grattard's bistro reincarnation, Franco-Cantonese cooking after Yam'Tcha proper closes

Modern French bistronomic on a quiet Les Halles side street, chef-driven, value-strong tasting

The tiny bistro between Saint-Sulpice and Luxembourg, Fooding-prize winner.

The Levha sisters' Franco-Filipino neo-bistro under a hand-painted ceiling on rue Saint-Maur.

Stéphane Jégo's Basque-Breton bistronomie since 2004, riz au lait that built a pilgrimage.

Manoj Sharma's modern Indian on rue de Choiseul, the 2e room that finally read Indian cooking as a chef's cuisine.

Modern Vietnamese on rue Amelot, the 11e room that does the spring roll seven ways.

Anatolian home cooking on rue Pasquier, the Madeleine room the Istanbul audience will actually recognise.

Three-Michelin since 1996, the chef who taught Paris that haute cuisine could improvise.

Fewer than 20 seats, one Michelin star, one chef's vision, the Marais's most surgical tasting menu.

Mok and Omar's lunch counter and bakery, Lebanese-Japanese-American detail in a 25-seat room.

Maxime Bouttier's first solo table, raw-and-living tasting menu on rue de la Folie Méricourt.

Antoine Westermann's Montmartre poultry house, heritage breeds, rotisserie at the top of the hill.

Sardinian cuisine on a quiet 11e street, Francesca Feniello's traditional bistrot, Le Fooding selection.

Julio Guerrero's neo-taquería on rue Lacharrière, Mexico-City standard, natural wine, Le Fooding register.

Bertrand Grébaut's 11e neo-bistro that reset the gravitational centre east in 2011.

Greg Marchand's 2e bistro that rewrote the neo-bistro template in 2009.

Paul Pairet's grill-and-rotisserie brasserie at the Crillon, the chic French fire-cooking room.

Anglophone-led tasting menu in a triplex above the Palais-Royal, Paris's quiet neo-bistro standard