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Alléno's one-Michelin counter format at Pavillon Ledoyen — the realistic same-week booking.

Adeline Grattard's bistro reincarnation — Franco-Cantonese cooking after Yam'Tcha proper closes

Modern French bistronomic on a quiet Les Halles side street — chef-driven, value-strong tasting

The tiny bistro between Saint-Sulpice and Luxembourg, Fooding-prize winner.

The Levha sisters' Franco-Filipino neo-bistro under a hand-painted ceiling on rue Saint-Maur.

Stéphane Jégo's Basque-Breton bistronomie since 2004 — riz au lait that built a pilgrimage.

Manoj Sharma's modern Indian on rue de Choiseul — the 2e room that finally read Indian cooking as a chef's cuisine.

Modern Vietnamese on rue Amelot — the 11e room that does the spring roll seven ways.

Anatolian home cooking on rue Pasquier — the Madeleine room the Istanbul audience will actually recognise.

Three-Michelin since 1996 — the chef who taught Paris that haute cuisine could improvise.

Fewer than 20 seats, one Michelin star, one chef's vision — the Marais's most surgical tasting menu.

Mok and Omar's lunch counter and bakery — Lebanese-Japanese-American detail in a 25-seat room.

Maxime Bouttier's first solo table — raw-and-living tasting menu on rue de la Folie Méricourt.

Antoine Westermann's Montmartre poultry house — heritage breeds, rotisserie at the top of the hill.

Sardinian cuisine on a quiet 11e street — Francesca Feniello's traditional bistrot, Le Fooding selection.

Julio Guerrero's neo-taquería on rue Lacharrière — Mexico-City standard, natural wine, Le Fooding register.

Bertrand Grébaut's 11e neo-bistro that reset the gravitational centre east in 2011.

Greg Marchand's 2e bistro that rewrote the neo-bistro template in 2009.

Paul Pairet's grill-and-rotisserie brasserie at the Crillon — the chic French fire-cooking room.

Anglophone-led tasting menu in a triplex above the Palais-Royal — Paris's quiet neo-bistro standard