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The no-reservations rue du Nil counter from Gregory Marchand's group, natural wine and small plates

Belle Époque tiles, marionette-sized kitchen, neo-bistro cooking, opposite the Cirque d'Hiver.

Julio Guerrero's neo-taquería on rue Lacharrière, Mexico-City standard, natural wine, Le Fooding register.

Canal Saint-Martin's natural-wine institution, 400 references, plates from the kitchen behind the bottles.

Bertrand Grébaut's 11e neo-bistro that reset the gravitational centre east in 2011.

Septime's no-reservations seafood sister, daily-catch small plates on rue de Charonne.

The Levha sisters' Franco-Filipino neo-bistro under a hand-painted ceiling on rue Saint-Maur.

Tiny natural-wine bar inside the covered Passage des Panoramas, a Paris postcard.

Brazilian asador, Lucas Baur de Campos's open-fire 11e room, Le Fooding, Infatuation cult.

Anglophone-led tasting menu in a triplex above the Palais-Royal, Paris's quiet neo-bistro standard

The bistronomy capital of Paris, on the Carrefour de l'Odéon.

Eric Trochon's industrial bistronomy on rue de Seine.

The tiny bistro between Saint-Sulpice and Luxembourg, Fooding-prize winner.

Mok and Omar's lunch counter and bakery, Lebanese-Japanese-American detail in a 25-seat room.

1902 Art Nouveau brasserie on Ledru-Rollin, Mucha frescoes, listed interior, honest cooking.

Marble-clad tapas-and-wine room next to the old Chateaubriand, Rem Koolhaas interior, natural-wine list.

Anglo-French neo-bistro on Faubourg Poissonnière, a wine list with weight, an unfussy kitchen.

Jody Williams's all-day gastrothèque, the SoPi room that never feels off.

Husband-and-wife Michelin star on avenue de Versailles, chef Noam Gedalof, sommelier Etheliya Hananova.

Sardinian cuisine on a quiet 11e street, Francesca Feniello's traditional bistrot, Le Fooding selection.