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The bistronomy capital of Paris, on the Carrefour de l'Odéon.

The soufflé restaurant of the 7e, behind Le Bon Marché.

1919 Place des Ternes brasserie, Laura Gonzalez interior, three-time MOF écailler.

Basque auberge on Quai Saint-Exupéry, Pierre Oteiza Kintoa pork, pintxos, the Trinquet Village Seine-edge terrace.

Two-star Ducasse dining room overlooking the Tuileries, with Cédric Grolet desserts

Anglophone-led tasting menu in a triplex above the Palais-Royal, Paris's quiet neo-bistro standard

Adeline Grattard's bistro reincarnation, Franco-Cantonese cooking after Yam'Tcha proper closes

Modern French bistronomic on a quiet Les Halles side street, chef-driven, value-strong tasting

A Provençal bistro hiding behind Place des Vosges, and the city's largest pastis collection.

The Bernard Loiseau group's Michelin-starred Palais-Bourbon canteen.

1902 Art Nouveau brasserie on Ledru-Rollin, Mucha frescoes, listed interior, honest cooking.

Southwest French institution since 1894, Art-Nouveau dining room beside the Halles épicerie.

Tiny zinc-bar bistro near Châtelet, GaultMillau toque, charcuterie from named Auvergne producers.

1900 Bois de Boulogne pavilion, Michelin star since 1965, Empire and Belle Époque rotunda.

Bertrand Grébaut's 11e neo-bistro that reset the gravitational centre east in 2011.

Greg Marchand's 2e bistro that rewrote the neo-bistro template in 2009.

Alléno's one-Michelin counter format at Pavillon Ledoyen, the realistic same-week booking.

Paul Pairet's grill-and-rotisserie brasserie at the Crillon, the chic French fire-cooking room.

Italian bistrattoria in the 19th-century Passage des Panoramas, Simone Tondo's Michelin-starred room

The Goncourt Prize restaurant since 1914, Place Gaillon institution under chef Romain Van Thienen