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Candlelit 9e dining room, reborn under chef Lucie Boursier-Mougenot.

Two-Michelin glass pavilion at George V where the kitchen runs on vegetables, dairy and seafood — no meat.

Jérôme Banctel's three-Michelin in a Napoleon III mansion off the Champs-Élysées.

Adeline Grattard's bistro reincarnation — Franco-Cantonese cooking after Yam'Tcha proper closes

Southwest French institution since 1894 — Art-Nouveau dining room beside the Halles épicerie.

Tiny zinc-bar bistro near Châtelet — GaultMillau toque, charcuterie from named Auvergne producers.

Husband-and-wife Michelin star on avenue de Versailles — chef Noam Gedalof, sommelier Etheliya Hananova.

Bertrand Grébaut's 11e neo-bistro that reset the gravitational centre east in 2011.

Italian bistrattoria in the 19th-century Passage des Panoramas — Simone Tondo's Michelin-starred room

1890 Lyon-bouchon-style bistro — under the Dumant family from 2025, after Ducasse

The bistronomy capital of Paris, on the Carrefour de l'Odéon.

Eric Trochon's industrial bistronomy on rue de Seine.

The tiny bistro between Saint-Sulpice and Luxembourg, Fooding-prize winner.

Septime's no-reservations seafood sister — daily-catch small plates on rue de Charonne.

The Levha sisters' Franco-Filipino neo-bistro under a hand-painted ceiling on rue Saint-Maur.

Belle Époque tiles, marionette-sized kitchen, neo-bistro cooking — opposite the Cirque d'Hiver.

Anglo-French neo-bistro on Faubourg Poissonnière — a wine list with weight, an unfussy kitchen.

Forty-seat 7e bistro behind Musée d'Orsay — chef Patrick Plais's blanquette, lentil salad, chocolate mousse in a fruit-bowl.

Jody Williams's all-day gastrothèque — the SoPi room that never feels off.

Brazilian asador — Lucas Baur de Campos's open-fire 11e room, Le Fooding, Infatuation cult.