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Natural-wine cave-à-manger from 2008 — David Lebovitz's pick, pre-trend bona fides.

Tiny natural-wine bar inside the covered Passage des Panoramas — a Paris postcard.

The wine bar inside the Septime universe — 90 natural references, 30 standing seats, no booking.

Oberkampf natural-wine canteen, charcuterie and small plates, run by ex-Chateaubriand.

Naturophile cave-à-manger by the canal — visiting chefs, no reservations, minimum-intervention list.

Female-led cocktail bar with bi-fold windows on the Belleville-Canal axis — zero pretension, real depth.

Marble-clad tapas-and-wine room next to the old Chateaubriand — Rem Koolhaas interior, natural-wine list.

Pigalle bar-restaurant by Fabien Lombardi (ex-Prescription) — natural wines, aged cocktails, PUNCH-listed.

Half-punk, half-precise — the natural-wine small-plates bistro that rewrote the 11e in 2011.

French-spirits-only cocktail bar in a graffiti-clad doorway — World's 50 Best Bars regular.

République speakeasy hidden behind a working laundromat — push the right washing-machine door, climb the staircase.

Sentier rum den behind a grilled-cheese counter — Joseph Akhavan's 100-plus-rum library, Diffords-listed.

Julio Guerrero's neo-taquería on rue Lacharrière — Mexico-City standard, natural wine, Le Fooding register.

The no-reservations rue du Nil counter from Gregory Marchand's group — natural wine and small plates

Canal Saint-Martin's natural-wine institution — 400 references, plates from the kitchen behind the bottles.

Bertrand Grébaut's 11e neo-bistro that reset the gravitational centre east in 2011.

Crillon palace bar with eighteenth-century frescos — Kévin Rigault's 'A Sense of Memories' menu.

The Ritz's wood-paneled cocktail room — bookless reservations and a serious dry martini

Mahogany expat bar from 1911 — birthplace of the Bloody Mary, between Opéra and the Place Vendôme

The 2007 Sentier speakeasy that built modern Paris cocktail culture — still no reservations