Ladadika

The old olive-oil warehouse quarter behind the port, Ladadika kept its low stone buildings and narrow cobbled lanes when most of the centre was rebuilt, and for years it was the city's loudest night-out district. The better tables here have grown up past that: kitchens working Cretan and island produce, careful ouzo and tsipouro lists, modern Greek cooking that respects the bones of the place. By day the lanes are quiet and sun-warmed; after dark they fill, and the trick is choosing the room that cooks rather than the one that just pours. The maritime past is still legible in the doorways and the painted signage.