Στέκια in Paris

The 1932 bistro classique, Ducasse-stewarded since 2013.

Belle Époque salon de thé since 1903 — Mont-Blanc and chocolat l'Africain under the rue de Rivoli arcades

Tiny zinc-bar bistro near Châtelet — GaultMillau toque, charcuterie from named Auvergne producers.

Gaël Orieux's quiet Michelin star, sustainable fish only, fifteen years running.

1864 Belle Époque brasserie under a stained-glass dome — choucroute, plateaux de fruits de mer, full theatre.

Philippe Starck's 1970s post-office turned Trocadéro design hotel with rooftop kitchen garden.

1919 Place des Ternes brasserie — Laura Gonzalez interior, three-time MOF écailler.

1895 Saint-Lazare brasserie — Niermans mosaics, listed since 1989.

Brazilian asador — Lucas Baur de Campos's open-fire 11e room, Le Fooding, Infatuation cult.

Jody Williams's all-day gastrothèque — the SoPi room that never feels off.

Sartre and Beauvoir's corner of Boulevard Saint-Germain since 1887.

Jean-Marc Notelet's chalkboard bistro — spice-forward cuisine du marché near l'Étoile.

1927 Trocadéro tea-room — marble tables, white aprons, view across to the Tower.

The trompe-l'oeil fruit pastries you've seen on Instagram — boutique and salon

Forty-seat 7e bistro behind Musée d'Orsay — chef Patrick Plais's blanquette, lentil salad, chocolate mousse in a fruit-bowl.

Septime's no-reservations seafood sister — daily-catch small plates on rue de Charonne.

Italian trattoria in a former Jean-Paul Gaultier boutique — Le Fooding 'Best Decor' 2017, still buzzing.

1883 Belle Époque seafood brasserie — Rostang family, daily-port-sourced fish.

The Goncourt Prize restaurant since 1914 — Place Gaillon institution under chef Romain Van Thienen

Mikaela Liaroutsos's Greek bistro on rue Eugène Carrière — Michelin Guide listing, Le Fooding regular.

Mahogany expat bar from 1911 — birthplace of the Bloody Mary, between Opéra and the Place Vendôme

The original Pigalle boutique — leather banquettes, art on every wall, brunch all weekend.

Boutique design hotel inside a former metals factory — concrete, courtyard, cocktail bar at the centre.

Laurent Taïeb's reborn 1888 central post office with rooftop ROOF and Eiffel-facing terraces.

Former Hugo & Victor relaunched under the chef's name — 2003 French Dessert Champion's first eponymous boutique

Marais chocolatier with a tea room — millefeuille made à la minute, possibly Paris's finest caramels.

Manoj Sharma's modern Indian on rue de Choiseul — the 2e room that finally read Indian cooking as a chef's cuisine.

Stéphane Jégo's Basque-Breton bistronomie since 2004 — riz au lait that built a pilgrimage.

Basque auberge on Quai Saint-Exupéry — Pierre Oteiza Kintoa pork, pintxos, the Trinquet Village Seine-edge terrace.

Robert Linxe's original chocolate boutique since 1977 — the room that defined Paris bean-to-praline

Mourad Mazouz's Marais Maghreb institution since 1990 — tagines and pastilla under 17th-century beams.

The tiny bistro between Saint-Sulpice and Luxembourg, Fooding-prize winner.

Cyril Lignac's classified-monument bistro — fish-forward menu in an 1894 zinc-and-mosaic room.

Alain Ducasse's bean-to-bar manufacture in the 11e — Nicolas Berger's atelier behind a cobbled courtyard

Southwest French institution since 1894 — Art-Nouveau dining room beside the Halles épicerie.

The bistronomy capital of Paris, on the Carrefour de l'Odéon.

Antoine Westermann's Montmartre poultry house — heritage breeds, rotisserie at the top of the hill.

Châtelet jazz club since 1984 — 300+ concerts a year, free Friday-Saturday midnight jam.

The oldest café in Paris, opened 1686 — Voltaire, Diderot, Franklin all ate here.

The soufflé restaurant of the 7e, behind Le Bon Marché.

Gaston Lenôtre's flagship since 1957 — the Plaine Monceau room that taught a generation of French pastry chefs

The other Saint-Germain café, with the better view of the church.

Mediterranean cooking with a Tuileries terrace at the foot of the Louvre

France's oldest tea house since 1854 — the Bourg-Tibourg flagship with the colonial-era painted casks

Jean-Louis Deniot-designed Evok hotel facing Comédie-Française, with Brasserie Réjane and a marble pool.

Paul Pairet's grill-and-rotisserie brasserie at the Crillon — the chic French fire-cooking room.

Meilleur Ouvrier de France 2000 chocolatier — the Madeleine flagship with the life-size chocolate sculptures

Big Mamma's four-floor Florentine theatre under a Pigalle glass roof.

Open-fire Marais bistro where côte de bœuf is grilled in front of you on a wood hearth.

Eric Trochon's industrial bistronomy on rue de Seine.

Marais Korean BBQ — chef Sunghak Han's table-top grill, halal option, Michelin guide listing.

Anglophone-led tasting menu in a triplex above the Palais-Royal — Paris's quiet neo-bistro standard

Adeline Grattard's bistro reincarnation — Franco-Cantonese cooking after Yam'Tcha proper closes

Anatolian home cooking on rue Pasquier — the Madeleine room the Istanbul audience will actually recognise.