Venues similar to Étsi

Alléno's one-Michelin counter format at Pavillon Ledoyen, the realistic same-week booking.

Adeline Grattard's bistro reincarnation, Franco-Cantonese cooking after Yam'Tcha proper closes

The tiny bistro between Saint-Sulpice and Luxembourg, Fooding-prize winner.

Antoine Westermann's Montmartre poultry house, heritage breeds, rotisserie at the top of the hill.

Sardinian cuisine on a quiet 11e street, Francesca Feniello's traditional bistrot, Le Fooding selection.

Bertrand Grébaut's 11e neo-bistro that reset the gravitational centre east in 2011.

Paul Pairet's grill-and-rotisserie brasserie at the Crillon, the chic French fire-cooking room.