Places in Athens

Pangrati taverna since 1926, barrel retsina, paper-tablecloth classics, the institution.

Upper-Plaka taverna since 1927, courtyard, charcoal grill, the working-Athenian institution above the tourist belt.

Pangrati mezedopoleio, the city's most-booked Bib Gourmand small-plates room.

Psyrri delicatessen-restaurant, the Smyrna refugee canon, the cuisine cousin Istanbul lost in 1922.

Nikis Street vegetarian-and-vegan day-room, the central-Athens brunch counter.

Mitropoleos all-day food hall and hotel, produce market, day-bakery, modern-Greek dining counter.

Psyrri taverna, regional-Greek cooking, Bib Gourmand, the mother's-kitchen register made formal.

Monastiraki design-and-courtyard cultural venue, coffee by day, cocktails by night, programmed concerts.