Italian in London

Jacob Kenedy's region-by-region Italian counter on Archer Street — every dish labelled by province, eighteen years deep

Nose-to-tail Italian on Curtain Road — house-cured salumi and wood-fired offal in Shoreditch

Ed Wilson's Columbia Road natural-wine bistro — the East End's most consistent neighbourhood kitchen

Pistachio-green Soho deli since 1944 — pasta as Italian commute

Angela Hartnett's one-star Italian on Queen Street — the civilised Mayfair lunch the neighbourhood's regulars actually keep.

River Café DNA, hotel-restaurant comfort — Tuscan cooking on Park Lane

Lowndes Street's Italian institution since 1995 — the Belgravia trattoria that taught London regional pasta