Bistrot Paul Bert

The fixed point on rue Paul Bert. Bistrot Paul Bert has run on the same logic for two decades: white tablecloths, a chalkboard menu of bourgeois classics done well, a wine list that rewards reading, a soufflé that has launched a thousand reviews. The dining room is busy and a little bit charming about it. The kitchen sends out feuilleté of sweetbreads, roast venison with celeriac, côte de bœuf that the room shares without ceremony. It is the bistro most chefs name when asked which 11e bistro they actually go to. Reservations exist for a reason — phone only.