Places in Canal Saint-Martin

Charles Compagnon's open-plan neo-bistro — Asian-inflected cooking, no reservations, all-day kitchen.

Anglo-French neo-bistro on Faubourg Poissonnière — a wine list with weight, an unfussy kitchen.

1906 Art Nouveau bouillon — Mucha-style nymphs, listed monument, Édith Piaf's table.

Female-led cocktail bar with bi-fold windows on the Belleville-Canal axis — zero pretension, real depth.

Christophe Vasseur's 1875-listed bakery on rue Yves Toudic — pain des amis, escargots, no shortcuts.

Naturophile cave-à-manger by the canal — visiting chefs, no reservations, minimum-intervention list.

Mexican street-food institution on rue Eugène Varlin — Canal Saint-Martin's handmade-tortilla bench since 2011.

The Australian-style breakfast counter that taught Paris to queue for pancakes — and serve them well.

République speakeasy hidden behind a working laundromat — push the right washing-machine door, climb the staircase.

Canal Saint-Martin Cambodian institution — bo bun, summer rolls, banana-tapioca dessert, packed every night.

French-spirits-only cocktail bar in a graffiti-clad doorway — World's 50 Best Bars regular.

Canal Saint-Martin's natural-wine institution — 400 references, plates from the kitchen behind the bottles.

Mickaël Benichou's 2013 patisserie-boulangerie — painted-ceiling 19th-century shop, marble counter heaped with bread

Yann Couvreur's first patisserie since May 2016 — the original room with the fox-mark logo