French in Bastille, Charonne & Oberkampf

Bertrand Grébaut's 11e neo-bistro that reset the gravitational centre east in 2011.

Half-punk, half-precise, the natural-wine small-plates bistro that rewrote the 11e in 2011.

The 11e's reference bistro, steak-frites, soufflé, white tablecloths and zero affectation.

Belle Époque tiles, marionette-sized kitchen, neo-bistro cooking, opposite the Cirque d'Hiver.

Pauline Séné's Top Chef-pedigreed bistronomy at the more ambitious end of rue Paul Bert.

1902 Art Nouveau brasserie on Ledru-Rollin, Mucha frescoes, listed interior, honest cooking.

Cyril Lignac's classified-monument bistro, fish-forward menu in an 1894 zinc-and-mosaic room.

A turn-of-the-century café preserved without irony, zinc bar, red banquettes, all-day terrace.

Vegetable-driven neo-bistro with a 400-bottle wine list and savoury-leaning desserts.

The Levha sisters' Franco-Filipino neo-bistro under a hand-painted ceiling on rue Saint-Maur.