French in Paris

Charles Compagnon's open-plan neo-bistro, Asian-inflected cooking, no reservations, all-day kitchen.

1906 Art Nouveau room on the Left Bank, Chartier's brother house, listed.

1895 Saint-Lazare brasserie, Niermans mosaics, listed since 1989.

1927 Trocadéro tea-room, marble tables, white aprons, view across to the Tower.

1889 Abbesses brasserie, shellfish counter, Cantal charcuterie, no Montmartre theatre.

1902 Art Nouveau brasserie on Ledru-Rollin, Mucha frescoes, listed interior, honest cooking.

A turn-of-the-century café preserved without irony, zinc bar, red banquettes, all-day terrace.