Venues similar to Étsi

Alléno's one-Michelin counter format at Pavillon Ledoyen, the realistic same-week booking.

The tiny bistro between Saint-Sulpice and Luxembourg, Fooding-prize winner.

Stéphane Jégo's Basque-Breton bistronomie since 2004, riz au lait that built a pilgrimage.

Anatolian home cooking on rue Pasquier, the Madeleine room the Istanbul audience will actually recognise.

Three-Michelin since 1996, the chef who taught Paris that haute cuisine could improvise.

Fewer than 20 seats, one Michelin star, one chef's vision, the Marais's most surgical tasting menu.

Paul Pairet's grill-and-rotisserie brasserie at the Crillon, the chic French fire-cooking room.