Turkish in Çeşme

The chef-owner sources every olive and cheese herself, then turns the morning into a fixed-spread argument for slow village breakfast

A corner garden of lemon trees where the serpme stays classic and the pişi keeps coming, no bazaar-street theatre attached

The village's oldest rakı-fish table, run by the same family since 1950

A family-run raki-and-fish meyhane at the bazaar mouth where you bring your own bottle

Wood-fire day fish and herb meze with your feet near the sand at the Çark Beach bay

The Sezginer family puts up a wholly organic morning under their own vines, pouring grape juice pressed from grapes you can reach up and pick

The 1975 Dalyanköy fish house locals still defend

Elevated Dalyanköy fish house with a serious meze bench

Dalyanköy's quietly excellent harbour seafood room

The credible Anatolian grill room of Dalyan Marina

Tolga Kamiloğlu's contemporary Aegean kitchen on the Şifne seafront

Hacımemiş's mulberry-tree corner since 1963, the village's classical Turkish coffee bench, untouched by the specialty wave