O Frade
Progressive Alentejo and talha wine at a U-shaped marble bar
The riverside district of monasteries, museums and the famous custard tarts.
Belém is the riverside district where Portugal built its monuments to the age of discoveries, set apart from the centre along the Tagus. The Jerónimos monastery and the Torre de Belém are the obvious draws, but the quarter rewards a fuller day: the gardens, the design and modern-art collections, the ferries and the wide light off the water. The custard tarts here have their own protected recipe and a queue to match. Treat it as a half-day on its own rather than a tick-box detour.
4 lugares
Progressive Alentejo and talha wine at a U-shaped marble bar
Marble-and-wood petiscos between tasca and fine dining
Michelin-starred Portuguese on the Belém riverfront
Wood-fired pizza and sushi on the CCB roof terrace
3 lugares
The cult pastel de nata, freshly gonged, minus the Belém queue
Light-filled all-day café for creative brunch in Belém
Stone-milled Portuguese-grain bread from Alcantara
1 lugar