Noble Rot Soho

Noble Rot took the historic Gay Hussar room on Greek Street in 2020 — the Soho institution where Robin Cook and the Labour left used to plot. The wood-panelled, oxblood-leather Hungarian shell was kept; what changed is what comes out of the kitchen and what is poured. The list runs to 600+ bins, the Burgundy section especially deep, with the same unfussy mark-up principle as Lamb's Conduit. Stephen Harris of The Sportsman in Whitstable consulted on the original menu; the kitchen now runs a longer, more ambitious brief than the Bloomsbury original — whole turbot, dressed crab, charcuterie from Cornwall. The Soho pre-theatre and post-Almeida room.