Lugares in London

A 40-cover kitchen-and-natural-wine warehouse under the Bermondsey arches, chef Steve Williams

Ed Wilson's Columbia Road natural-wine bistro, the East End's most consistent neighbourhood kitchen

Adriana Cavita's Marylebone Mexican, generous, regional, unfussy

Moxon Street's cheese reference since 1992, Patricia Michelson's affineur, walk-in tasting room

David Carter's wood-and-oak smokehouse, the brisket Sunday lunch the chapter actually returns to

Endo Kazutoshi's Notting Hill casual, sushi without the omakase ceremony