Le Comptoir du Relais

Yves Camdeborde opened Le Comptoir in 2004 inside the Hôtel Relais Saint-Germain and effectively founded the bistronomy movement at its zinc bar — short menu, market produce, no formality, prices of a brasserie. He sold to Bruno Doucet (ex-La Régalade Saint-Honoré) in 2022, who kept everything: the half-dozen tables, the no-reservation lunch, the chalked daily specials, the carafes of Loire wine. Lunch service noon to 6pm walk-in only, dinner is a single seven-course menu by reservation at 8pm. In the Michelin selection. The terrace in Place de l'Odéon is the most contested in the 6e on a sunny Saturday.