Intimate in Paris

1890 Lyon-bouchon-style bistro, under the Dumant family from 2025, after Ducasse

Modern Vietnamese on rue Amelot, the 11e room that does the spring roll seven ways.

Candlelit 9e dining room, reborn under chef Lucie Boursier-Mougenot.

Italian bistrattoria in the 19th-century Passage des Panoramas, Simone Tondo's Michelin-starred room

Eight-seat sushi counter behind Place Louvois, surgical edomae from chef Masayoshi Hanada.