Lugares in Rome

Old-money Parioli dining with a Marche soul since 1968

Third-generation Roman trattoria a few metres from the Pantheon

Family enoteca in Parioli, pouring since 1929

Italo-French cooking in an intimate set of rooms off the Pantheon

The quinto-quarto cathedral carved into Monte Testaccio

Thirty-year sister-run enoteca and restaurant off Piazza Trilussa

1936 osteria famed for tableside cacio e pepe

A true Japanese izakaya, sake-only list, no sushi-roll tourism

Europe's first amaro bar with a full Roman osteria

Arcangelo Dandini's elevated Roman bistrot

Live-fire contemporary bistrot at the edge of Parioli-Flaminio

Barreca and Baccanelli's cult micro-restaurant of new-wave cucina romana

Owner-chefs' minimalist lab a step from the Pantheon

Book-bar and cocktail salon facing the Temple of Hadrian

Deli, wine cellar and serious kitchen in one room near Campo de' Fiori

Sarah Cicolini's offal-forward Roman trattoria, nose-to-tail and serious

Catalani family taberna reviving ancient Roman recipes in old Trastevere

Listening-bar osteria from De Maio and Franciosi

Family-run Marche kitchen, a Monti institution since the 1970s