Adresses in Athens

Working-class cellar since 1887 — Athens Central Market lunch room, no signs, two doors, the city's most stubbornly itself room.

Plaka souvlaki stall since 1946 — six stools, a charcoal grill, the canonical pita.

Working-class pork-chop room since 1955 — Evripidou Street, one dish, the institution.

Aiolou loukoumas counter — the chapter's classical-Greek sweet, fried-to-order.

Exarchia tsipouro-and-meze room — the alternative-quarter mezedopoleio canon.