Lyle's

Bruton Place Kyoto kaiseki — the discreet hidden door, the multi-course menu and the most considered Japanese dining in W1.

Nineteen seats around a single counter, two Michelin stars, and a tasting menu that reads like a daily field report from British producers.

Adam Byatt's two-Michelin-star Clapham Old Town room — the most considered cooking south-west of the river.

Sam and Sam Clark's Exmouth Market Moorish room — the 1997 landmark that taught London Spanish-and-North-African cooking.

Rafael Cagali's two-Michelin-star tasting room inside the Town Hall Hotel — Bethnal Green's destination kitchen.

Andrew Wong's two-Michelin-star pan-regional Chinese on Wilton Road — the first Chinese restaurant outside Asia to hold two stars.