Locali in Athens

Pangrati five-chef collective — contemporary-Greek, Bib Gourmand, the city's most-booked Tuesday.

Kifissia French-Greek tasting room — Hervé Pronzato's one-Michelin star.

Pangrati taverna since 1926 — barrel retsina, paper-tablecloth classics, the institution.

Plaka souvlaki stall since 1946 — six stools, a charcoal grill, the canonical pita.

Psyrri taverna — regional-Greek cooking, Bib Gourmand, the mother's-kitchen register made formal.

Pangrati mezedopoleio — the city's most-booked Bib Gourmand small-plates room.

Psyrri delicatessen-restaurant — the Smyrna refugee canon, the cuisine cousin Istanbul lost in 1922.

Working-class pork-chop room since 1955 — Evripidou Street, one dish, the institution.

Praxitelous all-day cocktail bar — top-50-bar canon, Athens' canonical drinks address.

Athens institution since 1920 — Piraeus-port origin, contemporary chef-led set menu, family fourth generation.

Nikis Street vegetarian-and-vegan day-room — the central-Athens brunch counter.

Koukaki rising small-plate room — modern-Greek, Acropolis-side, the chapter's Koukaki anchor.

Mitropoleos all-day food hall and hotel — produce market, day-bakery, modern-Greek dining counter.

Aiolou loukoumas counter — the chapter's classical-Greek sweet, fried-to-order.

Exarchia tsipouro-and-meze room — the alternative-quarter mezedopoleio canon.