Locali affini a Ippokampos

The Splantzia seafood mezedopoleio locals queue for

Sunset seafood among the Tabakaria tanneries

Grocer-meze-room on the restored square of Archanes

Cliffside Cretan plates beneath the Fortezza

All-day Greek bistro blending Hellenic and Levantine flavours

Modern Mediterranean in a flower-filled courtyard

Cretan-Ottoman cooking in a 600-year-old hammam off Splantzia

Forgotten Cretan recipes reworked for the modern table

Greek-Levantine cooking down a Splantzia alley with a steam-bath well

Mansion-style Cretan cuisine a block from Peskesi

Gourmet-awarded Cretan home cooking in a century-old house

Cretan cooking on hot bricks in a 1900 old-town house

Fireplace-warm Cretan taverna for a local clientele

Wood-fire farm taverna cooking only over fire from its own land

Stone-oven Cretan institution in the centre of Vamos

Clay-pot-over-coals taverna under the plane tree in Gavalochori

Antikristo over open fire in a 200-year-old stone building near Vamos

All-day bagel and coffee counter from the team behind Five

A modern rakadiko where locals actually eat

Tiny market-driven kitchen, the chef's daily haul is the menu