Locali in Lisbon

Candlelit Italo-Portuguese small plates with a tight natural list

Jose Avillez's two-Michelin-star contemporary Portuguese flagship

Tiny market-driven bistro from two young chef-owners

Twelve-seat temple to Portuguese low-intervention wine

1905 Chiado coffeehouse, Pessoa's old terrace

Art Deco Rossio café with a literary past since 1929

Marble-and-wood petiscos between tasca and fine dining

Mouraria's 35-year Mozambican kitchen

The Anjos seafood institution since the 1950s

1947 beer-hall marisqueira for shellfish straight from the tank

Italian-grandmother cooking in a former Beato video shop

Specialty coffee and real-food brunch in a former pharmacy

Lisbon's oldest pastry house, family-run since 1829

Family tinned-fish house unchanged since 1930

Community kitchen where the neighbourhood cooks together

Michelin-starred Portuguese tasting menus at the Four Seasons Ritz

Old bakery turned restaurant, bar and concert room

The brewery that started Lisbon's Beer District

Tiny, tightly edited specialty bar by Principe Real

Joachim Koerper's Michelin-starred room above Parque Eduardo VII

First Michelin-starred vegetarian table in Iberia

Wood-fired pizza and sushi on the CCB roof terrace

Plant-forward brunch and specialty coffee in Anjos

Thirty-year river-terrace dining room above Santa Apolónia

Michelin-starred Portuguese on the Belém riverfront

Mid-century landmark hotel above the park with a serious dining stable

Long-running hidden cocktail bar in a Belle Epoque room

Wood-panelled seafood institution running since 1936

Stone-milled Portuguese-grain bread from Alcantara

Former drugstore turned slow-food wine bar

London-born regional Indian, Bib Gourmand in Chiado

In-house-roasted specialty coffee and magazines in Bica

Low-lit cocktail and oyster bar themed around the printed word

Counter-driven Japanese tavern in Principe Real

Grand brasserie of altitude inside a centenary Avenida theatre

Brazilian-accented wine bar and petiscos in a leafy Principe Real corner

Eight-seat kaiseki counter from Paulo Morais

The world's oldest operating bookshop, on Rua Garrett since 1773

Alexandre Silva's Michelin-starred tasting-menu temple by the Basílica

Naturally-leavened pizza, Basque cheesecake and natural wine

Riverfront museum of art, architecture and technology

The pastel de nata, made to order behind glass

The cult pastel de nata, freshly gonged, minus the Belém queue

Lisbon's oldest restaurant, Pessoa's café since 1782

Adults-only design hotel with the best terrace over Alfama's rooftops

Light-filled all-day café for creative brunch in Belém

Multi-room live-music cocktail bar off the Pink Street strip

Progressive Alentejo and talha wine at a U-shaped marble bar

Decades-old Alentejano specialist for roast kid and rice

Tiled Graca tasca favoured by Lisbon's own chefs

Ze Paulo Rocha's modern Mouraria tavern, reborn

1943 pastelaria, repeat 'best pastel de nata' winner

Nose-to-tail Alentejano pork in a no-frills Campo de Ourique room

Destination natural-wine bar and shop by Jardim da Estrela

Austrian-owned all-day cafe with cake, books and worn sofas

Globe-trotting small plates and an all-natural drinks list

Farm-to-table room and natural-wine flagship by António Galapito

Bell-and-frog speakeasy on the World's 50 Best Bars list

Natural-wine bar and merceria in the heart of the bairro

Michelin-starred chef's table where Portugal meets Asia

Vine-shaded courtyard bistro with a 'no fado, no sardines' creed

Wood-fired Mediterranean, vinyl and natural wine in quiet Lapa

The original Cais do Sodre conservas bar

Fifteen-room townhouse hotel with a garden-fed kitchen

27-seat modern taberna for inventive petiscos near the Pantheon

Henrique Sa Pessoa's tapas-and-petiscos vermouth bar

Brazilian-Portuguese petiscos in a tiny Mouraria room

Vitor Sobral's reinvented corner tavern

Sourdough, pastry and specialty coffee at 8 Marvila

1933 grand hotel anchoring the avenue's luxury axis

Lisbon's flagship urban-contemporary art platform

Restored 18th-century palace above the Bica miradouro

Brazilian-founded restaurant, bar and gallery for sharing plates

Charcoal ribs and communal benches in a Mouraria alley

Tiny Graca counter where Portugal meets Japanese technique

Belgian-Portuguese dining in a 17th-century convent cloister

Lisbon's credible Anatolian room, an all-women kitchen

Nun-run canteen with one of Lisbon's best secret views

Neighbourhood tasca for fried cuttlefish and petiscos

Vincent Farges's Michelin-starred essay in restraint

Pioneering Lisbon roaster on a 5kg Probatone

Sleek Marvila brewpub with a view of the silos

Slow-fermented artisan bakery from Vitor Sobral & Mário Rolando

Nuno Mendes back in Lisbon, inside a converted convent

Palace-turned-suites hotel atop Bairro Alto