Locali in London

Mr Lyan's South Bank flagship, the first 3-PIN bar in the Pinnacle Guide, Thames at the window

Frith Street's 1959 jazz room, the canonical London jazz club, two sets a night, low ceiling, red lamps

London's longest-standing Michelin-starred pub, Fulham backstreets, game and wild food

Karam Sethi's Marylebone coastal-Indian, one Michelin star held since 2012

Henrietta Street's modern British room from the Kitty Fisher's team, clubby, candle-lit, opera-night reliable.

St Martin's Court's 1890s seafood institution, Theatreland's pre-curtain Dover sole

Bloomsbury French, the silver duck press, the classical menu and one of the very last rooms in Europe still pressing canard à la presse.

London's oldest restaurant, Maiden Lane since 1798, four families across ten reigns, and the game-and-claret Britain that has not changed.

Britain's oldest Indian restaurant, open on Regent Street since 1926 and now in its hundredth year.