Locali in Madrid

Spain's exclusive La Cabra outpost for coffee and bakehouse

Persian market cuisine from a one-woman kitchen

Calle Argumosa's alternative tapas terrace

Natural wine and vinyl inside Mercado de San Fernando

1892 bodega, vermut de grifo and one of Madrid's best tortillas

1827 taberna on Cervantes' old street

The Rastro's snail institution since 1942

1860 tavern of legendary bacalao, croquetas and Madrid history

A 1920 taberna reborn, ibérico-and-truffle croquetas and noble menú del día

The locals' temple of battered bacalao near Plaza Mayor

1941 bullfighting tavern famed for its fried merluza

Reborn 1950s vermouth tavern on an 8-metre marble bar

All-day West-Coast cafe with in-house bakery and La Cabra coffee

Specialty-coffee espresso bar in Salamanca

Communal-table specialty coffee with an Asian-vintage touch

Lavapiés roaster supplying the city's best specialty bars

Plaza de San Ildefonso specialty café and work-friendly hub

1929-rooted tin-bar taberna by the Retiro

Bohemian all-day kitchen with a Michelin-pedigree hand

Quiet old-school tapas bar beside the Conde Duque centre

Bohemian Basque pintxo bar on Cava Baja since the 1980s

Malasaña's mid-century living room, all day into the night

House-macerated spirits workshop between Chueca and Malasaña

The credible Turkish kitchen Madrid actually has

Salamanca's real neighbourhood food market

Chueca's real food market with a rooftop terrace

Lavapiés's real neo-Mudéjar market, from fishmongers to natural wine

Chamberí's 1933 market reborn as a boundary-pushing food hall

Hola Coffee's specialty café and bakehouse on the Conde Duque edge

Beirut-rooted Levantine cooking, modernised in Chueca

The canonical Spanish painting collection — Velázquez, Goya, Bosch

Spain's modern-art museum and the home of Guernica

The collection that fills the gaps — eight centuries on one walk

Tiny Georgian bistrot for khachapuri and khinkali

Artisan sourdough bakery across from the Conde Duque centre

Eco specialty coffee and all-day brunch in Lavapiés

A former adult cinema reborn as a cultural bar-cinema

Madrid's oldest tavern, untouched since before 1787

A 'wine cult' with 400+ wines by the glass on Ponzano

Beam-and-stone Cava Baja wine taberna with a deep Spanish list

Madrid's second-oldest tavern, beloved of Lorca's generation

Cava Baja vermut taberna with the secret 'Manuela' pour, since 1996

Neo-taberna with sharp Spanish tapas on the Conde Duque edge

The roaster that lit Madrid's specialty-coffee fuse, since 2012

Toma's Chamberí roastery room near Plaza de Olavide

Three-chef Bib Gourmand with half-portion freedom

Conde Duque specialty roastery cafe with natural wine after dark