Locali in Madrid

Spain's exclusive La Cabra outpost for coffee and bakehouse

Persian market cuisine from a one-woman kitchen

Calle Argumosa's alternative tapas terrace

1892 bodega, vermut de grifo and one of Madrid's best tortillas

1827 taberna on Cervantes' old street

The Rastro's snail institution since 1942

1860 tavern of legendary bacalao, croquetas and Madrid history

A 1920 taberna reborn, ibérico-and-truffle croquetas and noble menú del día

The locals' temple of battered bacalao near Plaza Mayor

All-day West-Coast cafe with in-house bakery and La Cabra coffee

Communal-table specialty coffee with an Asian-vintage touch

Lavapiés roaster supplying the city's best specialty bars

Plaza de San Ildefonso specialty café and work-friendly hub

1929-rooted tin-bar taberna by the Retiro

Bohemian all-day kitchen with a Michelin-pedigree hand

Quiet old-school tapas bar beside the Conde Duque centre

Bohemian Basque pintxo bar on Cava Baja since the 1980s

Malasaña's mid-century living room, all day into the night

Salamanca's real neighbourhood food market

Chueca's real food market with a rooftop terrace

Lavapiés's real neo-Mudéjar market, from fishmongers to natural wine

Chamberí's 1933 market reborn as a boundary-pushing food hall

Hola Coffee's specialty café and bakehouse on the Conde Duque edge

The canonical Spanish painting collection, Velázquez, Goya, Bosch

Spain's modern-art museum and the home of Guernica

The collection that fills the gaps, eight centuries on one walk

Tiny Georgian bistrot for khachapuri and khinkali

Artisan sourdough bakery across from the Conde Duque centre

Eco specialty coffee and all-day brunch in Lavapiés

Madrid's oldest tavern, untouched since before 1787

A 'wine cult' with 400+ wines by the glass on Ponzano

Madrid's second-oldest tavern, beloved of Lorca's generation

The roaster that lit Madrid's specialty-coffee fuse, since 2012

Toma's Chamberí roastery room near Plaza de Olavide

Conde Duque specialty roastery cafe with natural wine after dark