Locali in Madrid

Spain's exclusive La Cabra outpost for coffee and bakehouse

Persian market cuisine from a one-woman kitchen

1860 tavern of legendary bacalao, croquetas and Madrid history

The locals' temple of battered bacalao near Plaza Mayor

All-day West-Coast cafe with in-house bakery and La Cabra coffee

Specialty-coffee espresso bar in Salamanca

Communal-table specialty coffee with an Asian-vintage touch

Lavapiés roaster supplying the city's best specialty bars

Salamanca's real neighbourhood food market

Chueca's real food market with a rooftop terrace

Chamberí's 1933 market reborn as a boundary-pushing food hall

Hola Coffee's specialty café and bakehouse on the Conde Duque edge

The canonical Spanish painting collection — Velázquez, Goya, Bosch

Spain's modern-art museum and the home of Guernica

The collection that fills the gaps — eight centuries on one walk

Tiny Georgian bistrot for khachapuri and khinkali

Artisan sourdough bakery across from the Conde Duque centre

Eco specialty coffee and all-day brunch in Lavapiés

Madrid's second-oldest tavern, beloved of Lorca's generation

The roaster that lit Madrid's specialty-coffee fuse, since 2012

Toma's Chamberí roastery room near Plaza de Olavide

Conde Duque specialty roastery cafe with natural wine after dark