L'Arpège

Alain Passard bought L'Arpège from his mentor Alain Senderens in 1986, earned the third star in 1996, and has held it since — the longest continuous three-star tenure on the Left Bank. In 2001 he removed red meat from the lunch menu to focus on vegetables grown in his three estates (Sarthe, Eure, Manche); in July 2025 he removed all animal products entirely, becoming the first three-Michelin chef in France with a fully plant-based menu. The 24-seat dining room on rue de Varenne is panelled in pearwood, with Lalique pieces. Lunch tasting from €175; dinner from €490. The legume-by-legume composition over twelve courses is the central work of contemporary French cuisine.