Le Potager du Marais

L'Arpège (Alain Passard's 7e three-Michelin) holds the vegetable-forward register at the chapter's high end, but the city is otherwise thin on dedicated vegan rooms with serious cooking. Le Potager du Marais on rue Saint-Paul has run since December 2003 — twenty-plus years of reinterpreting French gastronomic classics in a vegan idiom: seitan bourguignon, vegetable gratin, the bistro card translated without animal product. Twenty seats, exposed stone, beams, plants and candles. Organic-ingredient led, ~€30 for a three-course meal, Wednesday-Sunday opening. The Marais vegan reference for the audience that wants the cuisine without compromise.