Locali in Paris

The Melbourne brunch room that taught Montmartre flat whites.

The Australian-style breakfast counter that taught Paris to queue for pancakes — and serve them well.

12 rooms, exposed beams, quiet 4e side street — the Marais's small, well-priced character hotel.

1889 Abbesses brasserie — shellfish counter, Cantal charcuterie, no Montmartre theatre.

Cyril Lignac and Benoît Couvrand's original 11e patisserie — the Equinoxe was born here

The original 1862 Ladurée tea room — the room that invented the Paris salon de thé.

Christian Constant's cast-iron-pot canteen on rue Saint-Dominique.

Mickaël Benichou's 2013 patisserie-boulangerie — painted-ceiling 19th-century shop, marble counter heaped with bread

Marais épicerie-fine + restaurant — Delphine Plisson's Dean & DeLuca answer for Paris.

Mok and Omar's lunch counter and bakery — Lebanese-Japanese-American detail in a 25-seat room.

Japanese-precision French classical pâtisserie on avenue de Breteuil — Saint-Honoré as the benchmark

The Picasso of pastry, in his original Saint-Germain showcase.

Classical French pâtisserie under the Pyramides arcades — tea room facing the Tuileries

Paris's oldest pâtisserie since 1730 — Louis XV's pastry chef's listed shop on rue Montorgueil

Yann Couvreur's first patisserie since May 2016 — the original room with the fox-mark logo