Locali in Paris

Charles Compagnon's open-plan neo-bistro — Asian-inflected cooking, no reservations, all-day kitchen.

Oberkampf natural-wine canteen, charcuterie and small plates, run by ex-Chateaubriand.

1906 Art Nouveau room on the Left Bank — Chartier's brother house, listed.

Bertrand Larcher's original Paris crêperie — Bordier butter, Breton cider, Tokyo-trained discipline.

Tiny natural-wine bar inside the covered Passage des Panoramas — a Paris postcard.

Julio Guerrero's neo-taquería on rue Lacharrière — Mexico-City standard, natural wine, Le Fooding register.

12 rooms, exposed beams, quiet 4e side street — the Marais's small, well-priced character hotel.

1889 Abbesses brasserie — shellfish counter, Cantal charcuterie, no Montmartre theatre.

Cyril Lignac and Benoît Couvrand's original 11e patisserie — the Equinoxe was born here

The original 1862 Ladurée tea room — the room that invented the Paris salon de thé.

1902 Art Nouveau brasserie on Ledru-Rollin — Mucha frescoes, listed interior, honest cooking.

Canal Saint-Martin Cambodian institution — bo bun, summer rolls, banana-tapioca dessert, packed every night.

A turn-of-the-century café preserved without irony — zinc bar, red banquettes, all-day terrace.

Christian Constant's cast-iron-pot canteen on rue Saint-Dominique.

Mickaël Benichou's 2013 patisserie-boulangerie — painted-ceiling 19th-century shop, marble counter heaped with bread

Myriam Sabet's Levantine pâtisserie — kadaïf 1001-feuilles that Istanbul visitors instinctively recognise.

Marais épicerie-fine + restaurant — Delphine Plisson's Dean & DeLuca answer for Paris.

Mok and Omar's lunch counter and bakery — Lebanese-Japanese-American detail in a 25-seat room.

Japanese-precision French classical pâtisserie on avenue de Breteuil — Saint-Honoré as the benchmark

Japanese-French pâtisserie since 2001 — matcha, yuzu and black sesame on classical French structures

The Picasso of pastry, in his original Saint-Germain showcase.

Classical French pâtisserie under the Pyramides arcades — tea room facing the Tuileries

The wine bar inside the Septime universe — 90 natural references, 30 standing seats, no booking.

Paris's oldest pâtisserie since 1730 — Louis XV's pastry chef's listed shop on rue Montorgueil

Yann Couvreur's first patisserie since May 2016 — the original room with the fox-mark logo