Locali in Paris

Charles Compagnon's open-plan neo-bistro — Asian-inflected cooking, no reservations, all-day kitchen.

Half-punk, half-precise — the natural-wine small-plates bistro that rewrote the 11e in 2011.

Oberkampf natural-wine canteen, charcuterie and small plates, run by ex-Chateaubriand.

Modern Vietnamese on rue Amelot — the 11e room that does the spring roll seven ways.

1906 Art Nouveau room on the Left Bank — Chartier's brother house, listed.

Tiny natural-wine bar inside the covered Passage des Panoramas — a Paris postcard.

Female-led cocktail bar with bi-fold windows on the Belleville-Canal axis — zero pretension, real depth.

Naturophile cave-à-manger by the canal — visiting chefs, no reservations, minimum-intervention list.

The no-reservations rue du Nil counter from Gregory Marchand's group — natural wine and small plates

Julio Guerrero's neo-taquería on rue Lacharrière — Mexico-City standard, natural wine, Le Fooding register.

The Australian-style breakfast counter that taught Paris to queue for pancakes — and serve them well.

Cyril Lignac and Benoît Couvrand's original 11e patisserie — the Equinoxe was born here

République speakeasy hidden behind a working laundromat — push the right washing-machine door, climb the staircase.

1902 Art Nouveau brasserie on Ledru-Rollin — Mucha frescoes, listed interior, honest cooking.

Canal Saint-Martin Cambodian institution — bo bun, summer rolls, banana-tapioca dessert, packed every night.

A turn-of-the-century café preserved without irony — zinc bar, red banquettes, all-day terrace.

French-spirits-only cocktail bar in a graffiti-clad doorway — World's 50 Best Bars regular.

Canal Saint-Martin's natural-wine institution — 400 references, plates from the kitchen behind the bottles.

Mickaël Benichou's 2013 patisserie-boulangerie — painted-ceiling 19th-century shop, marble counter heaped with bread

Sentier rum den behind a grilled-cheese counter — Joseph Akhavan's 100-plus-rum library, Diffords-listed.

Ethiopian institution on rue Sauffroy — the 17e Batignolles room that has held the cuisine in Paris for decades.

Mok and Omar's lunch counter and bakery — Lebanese-Japanese-American detail in a 25-seat room.

Japanese-French pâtisserie since 2001 — matcha, yuzu and black sesame on classical French structures

The Picasso of pastry, in his original Saint-Germain showcase.

The wine bar inside the Septime universe — 90 natural references, 30 standing seats, no booking.

Paris's oldest pâtisserie since 1730 — Louis XV's pastry chef's listed shop on rue Montorgueil

Sardinian cuisine on a quiet 11e street — Francesca Feniello's traditional bistrot, Le Fooding selection.

Yann Couvreur's first patisserie since May 2016 — the original room with the fox-mark logo

11e cave-à-manger with one of Paris's deepest natural-wine cellars — 250+ cuvées.