Avli
Creative Cretan dining in a Venetian courtyard
Crete's best-preserved Venetian-Ottoman old town, a walkable warren of ouzeris, bakeries and ambitious modern Cretan kitchens between fortress and harbour.
Rethymno keeps the best-preserved Venetian-Ottoman old town on Crete, a dense warren of lanes between the Fortezza and the little Venetian harbour, with minarets, the Rimondi fountain and overhanging wooden balconies still in place. It is compact and walkable, and the food runs the full range, touristy harbour tavernas, but also genuinely good ouzeris, bakeries, ice-cream and a handful of ambitious modern Cretan kitchens tucked into the back streets. The university crowd keeps it livelier and less seasonal than you would expect, with proper coffee and late bars. Of the three Cretan old towns, this is the one to get lost in and eat your way through slowly.
8 Lokale
Creative Cretan dining in a Venetian courtyard
Creative Cretan inside a 15th-century monastery
Cretan cooking under a canopy of lemon trees
Stone-and-greenery room in the old-town lanes
A modern rakadiko where locals actually eat
Cliffside Cretan plates beneath the Fortezza
Cretan cooking around a 16th-century well
Modern Mediterranean in a flower-filled courtyard
5 Lokale
Ten antique-filled suites in Venetian dwellings
Suites in a Venetian-Ottoman old-town mansion
Contemporary suites in a 17th-century town house
A 15th-century Venetian palace below the Fortezza
Two historic estates in the Venetian quarter
2 Lokale
1 Lokal