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All-day bagel and coffee counter from the team behind Five

The locals' all-day coffee house anchoring the Koum Kapi promenade

Serious specialty coffee on the Koum Kapi waterfront since 2012

All-day cafe and wine bar on the edge of Splantzia square

All-day room for specialty coffee, light Mediterranean plates and wine

Crete's pioneering third-wave espresso and wine bar with a roof terrace

In-house coffee roaster and microbrewery in the Korai grid

Century-old Smyrna-rooted bougatsa house on Lions Square

Parisian patisserie in a 1930s Chania foundry

Seafront museum on the Venetian walls, home to two El Greco paintings

Mezze and raki on the painted-alley square of Lakkos

Chef Saridakis's modern Cretan ode to fish

Brothers who brought third-wave coffee to Chania, now roasting in-house

Chania's oldest bougatsa shop, fourth-generation, since 1924

Art-deco brasserie and ceramic studio with its own winery on the Koum Kapi seafront

Cretan-Ottoman cooking in a 600-year-old hammam off Splantzia

Forgotten Cretan recipes reworked for the modern table

Greek-Levantine cooking down a Splantzia alley with a steam-bath well

The Splantzia seafood mezedopoleio locals queue for