Fil Şaşkınbakkal

Cocktail-gastropub from the Joker No:19 crew spilling onto the Avenue — garden, relaxed, serious drinks

Two-floor bistro-bar a few steps off Ortaköy pier — Bosphorus view, locals over tourists

Terrace tucked below Rumeli Hisarı's ramparts — shadow of the fortress on one side, the Bosphorus narrowing on the other.

Street-level micro-bar on Esat Işık — creative cocktails, vinyl-leaning music, no-frills Kadıköy at its best

Tight Moda Caddesi bar with a deep beer fridge and a surprisingly serious cocktail menu — distinct from the Şaşkınbakkal Fil

Home-party-style Topağacı bar with assertive cocktails and a real neighborhood crowd.