Places in Bastille, Charonne & Oberkampf

Bertrand Grébaut's 11e neo-bistro that reset the gravitational centre east in 2011.

Brazilian asador, Lucas Baur de Campos's open-fire 11e room, Le Fooding, Infatuation cult.

Septime's no-reservations seafood sister, daily-catch small plates on rue de Charonne.

Belle Époque tiles, marionette-sized kitchen, neo-bistro cooking, opposite the Cirque d'Hiver.

Cyril Lignac and Benoît Couvrand's original 11e patisserie, the Equinoxe was born here

1902 Art Nouveau brasserie on Ledru-Rollin, Mucha frescoes, listed interior, honest cooking.

Cyril Lignac's classified-monument bistro, fish-forward menu in an 1894 zinc-and-mosaic room.

Alain Ducasse's bean-to-bar manufacture in the 11e, Nicolas Berger's atelier behind a cobbled courtyard

A turn-of-the-century café preserved without irony, zinc bar, red banquettes, all-day terrace.

Mok and Omar's lunch counter and bakery, Lebanese-Japanese-American detail in a 25-seat room.

Sardinian cuisine on a quiet 11e street, Francesca Feniello's traditional bistrot, Le Fooding selection.

11e cave-à-manger with one of Paris's deepest natural-wine cellars, 250+ cuvées.