Editorial
In-depth guides, local perspectives, and editorial stories on Nice's food, culture, and neighborhoods.
Behind the photo-menu lanes of the old town, a handful of rooms still cook the real Niçois repertoire: socca, pissaladière, petits farcis, daube, stockfish. Here is where a Niçois eats it, and why the city guards a kitchen that is neither quite French nor quite Italian.
Read storyCours Saleya gets the postcards; Libération feeds the city. North of the centre, a working market under the old railway and the 1921 covered hall draw the cooks, the fishmongers' regulars and a clutch of family tables that turn the morning's catch into lunch.
Read storyThe seafront sells the view and charges for it. The city eats one street back, in the bistros of the old town and the quiet Belle Époque grid of Carabacel. A simple test sorts the theatre from the table: would a Niçois confidently bring a guest here, or only a tourist?
Read storyNice's serious cooking has moved off the seafront and into small, chef-owned rooms near the port and the centre. From a South African one-star on Port Lympia to the Tourteaux brothers' double-starred travel cuisine, this is a constellation built on local suppliers and personal vision, not palace glamour.
Read storyNice grows its own wine, the tiny Bellet appellation on the hills above the city, and drinks a great deal more that arrives in unfiltered bottles from small growers. From a 1998 pioneer to laundromats and fishing cabanas reborn as cellars, the natural-wine scene here is about discovery, not labels.
Read storyBetween Port Lympia and Riquier, a once-overlooked grid of streets has become where young chefs cook alone, change the menu weekly and stake everything on local produce. This is Nice's bistronomy heartland, ambitious but unstuffy, and the most exciting eating in the city right now.
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